Advice on Tearing Down - Storing Engine Parts
Moderators: GAHorn, Karl Towle, Bruce Fenstermacher
Advice on Tearing Down - Storing Engine Parts
Guys:
Need your thoughts on the following:
I've got a C145-2 that I'd like to keep for either a future re-build and/or for parts for my running C145-2 and my questions are:
1. Is it best to store the engine assembled? I'm concerned about internal parts corroding if I just leave it sitting on tires in my hanger. Or...
2. Should I disassemble the engine, clean and label all of the parts, and then store the parts until such time that I either rebuild and/or need parts, and then send the needed major parts such as the crankshaft out to see if it can be yellow tagged?
3. If the consensus is that it would be better to disassemble the engine for storatge:
a) What solvent(s) should be used for cleaning? Mineral spirits?
b) How best to protect the parts from corrosion while in storage?
Spray and/or wipe them down with ACF50? Wrap them in some
sort of waxed storage paper?
Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks,
Curt
Need your thoughts on the following:
I've got a C145-2 that I'd like to keep for either a future re-build and/or for parts for my running C145-2 and my questions are:
1. Is it best to store the engine assembled? I'm concerned about internal parts corroding if I just leave it sitting on tires in my hanger. Or...
2. Should I disassemble the engine, clean and label all of the parts, and then store the parts until such time that I either rebuild and/or need parts, and then send the needed major parts such as the crankshaft out to see if it can be yellow tagged?
3. If the consensus is that it would be better to disassemble the engine for storatge:
a) What solvent(s) should be used for cleaning? Mineral spirits?
b) How best to protect the parts from corrosion while in storage?
Spray and/or wipe them down with ACF50? Wrap them in some
sort of waxed storage paper?
Appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks,
Curt
If you intend to keep/store for potential future use, .... I believe I'd recommend disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and preservation.
Many parts will not be reused, such as many fasteners....but it's important to label them. Ultrasound is a good method of cleaning small parts. LPS-3 is a good preservative, but avoid the aerosol can method...buy it in a gallon container, or puncture the aerosol and let the gas out, then open the can for dipping/brushing. Wrap in butcher paper. Do not store in plastic. Store in a dry place. (Like an old refrigerator....think welding rods.)
I'd have the crank inspected. That way it'll come back clean and ready for storage. Same with all the gears. Have them inspected. Cams are cheap. Buy a new one. Hydraulic lifters, have them sent out for inspection, re-nitride, etc. and then preserve and store. Aluminum parts should be cleaned, inspected, alodined.
Many parts will not be reused, such as many fasteners....but it's important to label them. Ultrasound is a good method of cleaning small parts. LPS-3 is a good preservative, but avoid the aerosol can method...buy it in a gallon container, or puncture the aerosol and let the gas out, then open the can for dipping/brushing. Wrap in butcher paper. Do not store in plastic. Store in a dry place. (Like an old refrigerator....think welding rods.)
I'd have the crank inspected. That way it'll come back clean and ready for storage. Same with all the gears. Have them inspected. Cams are cheap. Buy a new one. Hydraulic lifters, have them sent out for inspection, re-nitride, etc. and then preserve and store. Aluminum parts should be cleaned, inspected, alodined.
Last edited by GAHorn on Mon May 21, 2007 3:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
If you disassemble make sure you have a method for keeping everything together. Disassembled projects have a way of migrating parts right out of the picture. Also any thing that you have overhauled make sure that 5-10 years down the road you have it documented well enough to know exactly what was done to it. That way you can go to that file and review what was done and know if the work accomplished complies with the overhaul requiremnets and also complies with any Service Bulletins or AD's the come out in the mean time. Brian
52 170B s/n 20446
56 172 s/n 28162
Echo Weed eater, Jezebeel
56 172 s/n 28162
Echo Weed eater, Jezebeel
What is "buther" paper?
George:
What is buther paper?
Thanks for the advice...I'll follow it.
Curt
What is buther paper?
Thanks for the advice...I'll follow it.
Curt
- Bruce Fenstermacher
- Posts: 10321
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 11:24 am
I think George meant butcher paper.
I personally would not dissassemble the engine farther than removing the cylinders and securing the connecting rods so they can not touch the case halves.
I'd store the pistions with rings intacked inside the cylinders and place the pushrods back in the pushrod tubes that they came from. I might remove the oil sump and clean it and then reoil it and store it back on the case halves. I'd also reoil the cylinder walls and any other areas thought to be dry.
I'd store all in a dry area that you can monitor from time to time.
This way all the engine parts are intact and in the same place and postion as when the engine was removed.
I personally would not dissassemble the engine farther than removing the cylinders and securing the connecting rods so they can not touch the case halves.
I'd store the pistions with rings intacked inside the cylinders and place the pushrods back in the pushrod tubes that they came from. I might remove the oil sump and clean it and then reoil it and store it back on the case halves. I'd also reoil the cylinder walls and any other areas thought to be dry.
I'd store all in a dry area that you can monitor from time to time.
This way all the engine parts are intact and in the same place and postion as when the engine was removed.
CAUTION - My forum posts may be worth what you paid for them!
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Bruce Fenstermacher, Past President, TIC170A
Email: brucefenster at gmail.com
Re: What is "buther" paper?
"butcher" paper maybe.CBogle wrote:George:
What is buther paper?
Thanks for the advice...I'll follow it.
Curt
Tear it down and clean otherwise it will continue to corrode from within. The oil leaves deposits adjacent to the case and pan and in the the long run these corrosive deposits will eat through the mag components. Might as well find out what you have that can be used again or find out how much is scrap. Unless you want to sell it all and let someone else roll the dice.
Yes, that's what I meant...butcher paper. (I corrected my typo. sorry.)
Jim and I think similarly about this... I'd tear it down and determine the serviceability of what's there. Otherwise, you'll be storing parts that may have little/no value...until their replacements are even more expensive/difficult to find.
If you don't determine their serviceablilty...then a potential purchaser will either beat you down on the price or (more likely) insist that they be able to return them for refund, (and being an honorable person you'll allow that. The only way you'll know you're storing useful parts is to determine their condition...and to properly preserve them...something that can only be done with tear-down, cleaning, inspection...then preservation.) dos centavos del mio.
Jim and I think similarly about this... I'd tear it down and determine the serviceability of what's there. Otherwise, you'll be storing parts that may have little/no value...until their replacements are even more expensive/difficult to find.
If you don't determine their serviceablilty...then a potential purchaser will either beat you down on the price or (more likely) insist that they be able to return them for refund, (and being an honorable person you'll allow that. The only way you'll know you're storing useful parts is to determine their condition...and to properly preserve them...something that can only be done with tear-down, cleaning, inspection...then preservation.) dos centavos del mio.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
Started Today
George:
I agree and started the process today. Very time consuming as when I'm done, I label each part with the page, part number and description per the engine parts manual.
I'm leaving the valves and springs in each cylinder as I don't have the tools to remove them. I assume that if I ever overhaul these cylinders, the shop that does the overhaul will replace the valves and springs anyway.
Will I need any special tools for the disassembly of any other part of the engine?
Thanks,
Curt
I agree and started the process today. Very time consuming as when I'm done, I label each part with the page, part number and description per the engine parts manual.
I'm leaving the valves and springs in each cylinder as I don't have the tools to remove them. I assume that if I ever overhaul these cylinders, the shop that does the overhaul will replace the valves and springs anyway.
Will I need any special tools for the disassembly of any other part of the engine?
Thanks,
Curt
Offhand, I can't think of any specialized tools you'll need for dis-assembly. There are some for reversing the process, however.
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons.
-
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 1:56 pm
special tools
Left handed wrenches for disassembly, right hand wrenches for when it comes time to re-assemble.