delete

[bigrenna]

delete

[cessna170bdriver]

I've been obviously trying to keep the exposure to a minimum, but there is some amount of "it is what it is..." Chem resistant gloves, proper respirator, ventilation, etc, is your friend.

I was wondering (hoping) you had a remote air source. I don't and of course have had visions how I could create one for this purpose.

It's nothng a little money can't fix: http://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Air-Respira ... B0041B6U3U Cheaper than a new set of lungs, though...

[LBPilot82]

What can you tell me about the glare shield? I assume you were able to install it without removing the windscreen?? What material is it made of? I am looking for a glare shield to decrease the nasty instrument light reflections at night but I am not usually a fan of a big "ugly" glare shield. Yours looks pretty good from the picture though. I was thinking some kind of foam or rubber piece I can slip on the stand-off panel when needed. Perhaps something "P" shaped like the B model door seals that would sandwich in the top panel gap and then hang over the panel a bit. Can you post a few other pictures?

[hilltop170]

Richard-
Why couldn't you put some self-adhering velcro dots across the glare shield and then have a removable piece of stiff foam rubber cut to the desired shape with the other side of the dots in the correct places that could be rolled up when not in use?

I agree the glare off of the windshield is very distracting.

[LBPilot82]

Richard-
Why couldn't you put some self-adhering velcro dots across the glare shield and then have a removable piece of stiff foam rubber cut to the desired shape with the other side of the dots in the correct places that could be rolled up when not in use?

I agree the glare off of the windshield is very distracting.

Good point Richard. The more I think about it, the more I am actually leaning towards a piece of aluminum covered in black carpet which would overhang the edge of the panel an inch or two. Easily installed and removed if needed.

[bigrenna]

delete

[bigrenna]

delete

[bigrenna]

delete

[bigrenna]

delete

[GAHorn]

Your hard work and efforts are impressive.

This is an excellent chance to look inside your spar carry-throughs and wing-attach blocks and door posts. Get a mirror and bright light and look in deep for corrosion while you've gone this far. Also, inspect your flight control cables inside the rear door posts and your elevator bellcrank brackets and rear bulkhead. Look closely for any cracks back there. Check the rudder cables where they pass thru that last bulkhead, forward of the tailwheel bracket. (You've probably already done all this gauging by your efforts so-far.)

[cessna170bdriver]

Been cranking on the interior, and Im almost ready for paint....

Slow down there, you're getting ahead of me!

[bigrenna]

delete

[bigrenna]

delete

[blueldr]

bigrenna,
It's easy to see that you are going to have a nifty customized 1952 C-170B. I cried a lot when I just had to part with mine. I guess my problem is that I'm just running out of years.
It's a crying shame that the STC for installation of the Continental IO-360 engine is not presently available. It looks to me that your airplane would be the perfect candidate, and that conversion makes the C-170B the perfect airplane. One of the best features of that conversion is that it does not change the configuration of the cowling and the airplane keeps its original beauty.
I noticed in your pictures that you have the original stamped sheet metal rudder pedals. Should they get the bushings warn to where they rattle or need repair, I suggest you consider switching to the late cast PLASTIC pedals. It seems that they never wear out.and get loose.
It has been interesting following your progress. Please continue to keep us informed on your future efforts.

[BeeMan]

To go with your new shoes you really need a bush tailwheel too, don't you think?