The International Cessna 170 Association

If that works, I'll stop cussing my mac! Any idea what the name of the app is?
-Scott

Theres a couple different ones, but I think someone told me it was called color explorer.

Previously, I had posted that I bought the baggage door from an individual named Kevin Mayes and was having difficulty in getting him to deliver it. Kevin had contacted me and said the delay was because of tornados in West Liberty KY. I noted that I would keep the association informed of how it eventually worked out.

I am happy to report that Kevin followed up and I have received what appears to be all the parts from him. One thing that puzzles me though. I thought that the door reinforcement was one piece that fit around the opening. It appears that I received four pieces that form the reinforcement and no it does not appear that Kevin cut them when removing them. Does anyone know anything about this? I believe the door came off a 68 model 172. I will post pictures of them this weekend.

Regards,
Pete P.
1959 C-172

Pete, Glad to hear that your difficulties with Kevin Mays have been worked out. Keep us posted on the baggage door install. Jim

Yes, it is in many pieces. Referencing a current IPC ( depicting the baggage door) close to your year model will help you figure it out. If you are contemplating installation without using an STC (Using the IPC) version you will need bulkhead p/n 0512113-9 which is the same as 0512113 with a doubler in the botton half and the hinges. So, you can just drill off the extra parts on the (-9) and install on your existing bulkhead to save alot of work for yourself. OR to save even more work go with a STC that does'nt call out those parts.

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bigrenna wrote:Here are the parts I took off of a 1969 C172 (except the door.) The 69 (because of the rear window) is lacking the top piece which I will have to make. Hope it helps...

Greg-

baggageDoor_Parts.jpg

The piece that contains the latch striker looks (to me ) to be to curved to conform to the fuselage. I might be wrong. though. Also I only see one hinge bracket.

Making the as you say "Upper piece" will be a challenge!

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I thought I had replied this morning with this photo, and now its gone? The computer giveth and the computer taketh away.

I'm glad that supply difficulties have been worked out and you're getting to the matter at hand, Pete. In addition to an IPC and/or an STC, here's a photo to help stop the alphabet soup.

You'll note that I cleco'd the frame together and that I'm missing the gusset from the upper right corner. Nonetheless, it may help to see where everything goes. Of significant note is that the top and bottom door gussets are NOT interchangeable as they have compound curves in them.

Good luck!

Work from the floor up as thats the key fit up piece.

I was reviewing this thread in order to add some addt'l info and am somewhat embarrassed by my own persistence emphasizing my viewpoints. (I think I may have a habit which appears more forceful than I realized and (with apology to minton) I plan to work on that.

Anyway, to continue with the addendum...
...Scott (Blue4) contacted me with questions about the "Spring Thing" support on my bag door and here's some info which may be helpful to others:

The support spring can be found much less expensively from marine suppliers than aircraft folks. Amazon sells it for about $13. The exact duplicate part to the "Spring Thing" usually sold to aircraft folks is the " Sea Dog 321650-1 "
A link that is current (as of Jan. 2015) is: http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-321650-1- ... 877WPWB3CA
It is quite useful to prevent the wind from damaging an open bag door, while also serving to hold it open during loading/unloading.
Hope this helps.

How many hours does a baggage door take to install not counting paint?
I've heard 40 hours for a good tin man but that seems pretty high. Am I missing something complicated about the job?

Are there any tricks or gotchas to be aware of?

How do you do the final trimming of the outer skin once he internal frame is mounted in place? The lip on the frame for the door to seal against gives you little to no room to make final trimmings. Do you not install the frame first but rather cleco it in place until the hole is final size?

Would appreciate any tips.

If I remember correctly, when you buy Harry Dellickers STC for this job it will give you pretty complete directions for doing it.

And it probably takes 2 hours less time now that Harry no longer answers the phone there.

Falco,
I can see that you have talked on the telephone to the late Harry Dellicker.