Airtex Headliner Question

[CraigH]

For any of you who have installed Airtex headliners:

Does the headliner as it comes from Airtex have the little "tunnels" for the fuel gauges like the factory liners did? If so, how do they fit in around the gauge and if the tunnels are not there how do you work around it?

[doug8082a]

Mine was already installed when I bought the plane, so I can't say for sure whether it came with the "tunnels" already part of the liner or if the owner did it himself. My gut feel is that they came that way.

As for fitting around the gauge, they do that fine. The "tunnel" is sort of like an open ended stuff sack - i.e. the outboard end is hemmed around 90% of its circumference and has a drawstring arrangement. After pushing the "tunnel" over the fuel gauge, step outside the plane, remove the fairing at the wing root right above the door, and you can reach up to the fuel gauge neck, cinch up the drawstring and tie it off. Untying these can be a real pain. I've found that a dental pick works well at loosening the knot - just be careful not to damage the drawstring in the process.

Hope that wasn't clear as mud...

[gwillford]

Just installed a wool one in my 53. It comes with the "fuel gage tunnels" as part of the headliner. Take your time and it will turn out pretty good. Start at the back and move forward making sure that it is straight and reasonably tight. Also keep checking the fore/aft alignment of the fuel gage area as you go to make sure the opening is where you want it. Don't get too distressed over mild loose areas. After misting with hot water it shrinks up real nice. This was my first headliner and it turned out perfect. Have no experience with the vinyl headliner. Good luck.

[Walker]

Probably the worst thing you will run into while installing a new headliner will be the sawtooth retainers around the edges being broken and coming undone. This is the place to take your time, on both removal of the old headliner and repairing the damaged areas before you re-install. The wool headliner is easier to install and helps give ventilation to the upper cabin area, which in turn slows corrosion. Marking a centerline helps keep it going in straight. The tunnels should be set so you can see the gages easily. That can be determined by looking at them sitting in the plane and marking the spot. Some thin, rounded over pieces of wood make great tools for tucking in the headliner. A little tape over the rear windows helps prevent scratches. Steaming does wonders, however, it should only be done after you have done your best pulling it in place. Don't trim any excess until you are done. It you leave at least a sixteenth showing when you trim and then tuck the remainder into the void, it will be much easier to remove or retighten,

[jon s blocker]

Thats very good advise from Walker. I just redid the headliner in our '53 model also. A tool I use on my headliners is a 1 1/2" putty knife to tuck the liner in. Make sure you dull the edges of the putty knife so as not to tear the material. I also slightly bend a small curve in mine to keep it away from the glass as you work around the windows. This slips in very nicely and is easy to work the material into the space available. Most upholsterers I know use this tool. AirTex liners are a very good fit. I would also suggest the wool headliner, they are easy to work with, but harder to keep clean. If it is working plane I would use the vinyl headliner. Good luck . Jon

[N2865C]

This video is for 120/140's, but there might be enough useful generic information to warrant the cost. I personally have not seen it but I have heard good things about it.

http://www.cessna120-140.org/Classified/video.htm

[dacker]

I installed the vinyl headliner. Yes it did come with the tunnels for the fuel guages already made. I like the looks of the vinyl more but you can't put heat on it to shrink out any wrinkles the way you can with wool. That is a good point about the breathability of the wool.
I was very careful and actually did a pretty good job on my installation only to recently mess it up slightly. I CorrosionX'ed my airplane and some leaked from my rear carry through spar via my shoulder harnesses causing a stain.
David

[Roesbery]

All of the above is good info. Just did mine (Not Airtex) and the maker told me to mark the center line and start at the back, when all the ribs are in, pull the center forward tight, and hook, then tuck from the back and angle slightly forward as you pull the slack out. Hind sight says to get the tunnels tied around the fuel gages early and don't cut holes for overhead lights until after the headliner is completly in place. Was told to clean the ribs and lubricate with WD-40 before sliding into the pockets. And to cut a quarter moon shaped piece out of the rib pockets where the ribs attach to the roof, as opposed to just stabing holes in the material. Don't remember if Airtex has them precut or not, was in the 70s' when I did a Airtex liner. After removing the old liner check all the retainers and tweak as needed or replace if needed, I had to replace the one over the left door as there were no teeth on about half of it.

[zero.one.victor]

My 2 cents worth: do yourself & future owners a big favor & put in a wool headliner, not vinyl. Mine has a white Airtex vinyl headliner installed several owners back & it doesn't fit very well at all, looks crummy. Like was mentioned, a wool headliner can be shrunk (de-wrinkled) after installation til it's just right. Color: like instrument panels,it's hard to beat grey in my opinion,depending on the color of the rest of the interior. Next choice would be a light tan, if it's a better match.

Eric

[Dave Clark]

I agree with Eric.I've seen a lot more ratty vinyl headliners than wool ones. The wool goes in very easy. I was intimidated before I did mine but then when it went in in an hour or so and it was all done I had a good laugh at myself for being so chicken to start with. I tried to not rely on using water to shrink it and I got it a little tight but that's ok too. It was surprisingly stretchy which made it real easy. Just watch the cuts.

For the reasonable cost and ease of installation I wonder why we see any ratty headliners in airplanes.

[Harold Holiman]

About a hundred years ago (it seems) when I owned my 170A, I installed a complete Airtex interior including carpet, panels, and vinyl headliner. Everything fit perfectly, including the fuel gauge pockets, and I had no trouble installing the vinyl headliner. I just made sure it was hot weather so the vinyl would be very flexable. I still prefer the looks of a vinyl headliner.

Harold
N92CP

[GAHorn]

My airplane has an Airtex grey wool headliner, installed by the previous owner, who gave good remarks to the mfr. He basically told me how he installed it by starting at the middle and working his way outward/forward, etc., similar to what others have posted.
It appears to be well made and is now 6 or 7 years old, and still looks new. No complaints from me.

[dacker]

I believe that since the rear bulkhead is sewn in that you are sort of obligated to start at the rear and work forward. It is certainly one of those jobs that I would feel foolish hiring someone to do after doing it myself. It is another one of those "feel good projects" that don't take a lot of skill to do a good job, just a few hours and a couple of beers AFTER the job is done.
David

[djbaker]

We bought our wool headliner from Aircraft Spruce. $100 cheaper than Airtex. We hesitated a few weeks, thinking about how much trouble it could be. Took the plunge and an hour and a half later it now looks factory new.

[Exploreit2]

I have been contemplating buying a grey wool headliner from Airtex or saving $100 and buying it from Aircraft Spruce. Any thoughts? I know the Airtex one will be perfect but if the Aircraft Spruce one is identical I don't see any reason not to go with it. Any feedback is appreciated.