Goodyear Brake Parts

[bsdunek]

59Charlie is finally getting worked on again after 10 years in the hanger due to problems beyond my control.
In my interest in keeping it as original as possible, I still have the Goodyear brakes. These have always worked fine so long as they're maintained.
Problem is, I don't know where to find parts anymore. I'm OK at the moment, but may need pads, clips etc. in the future. Anyone have information on a source of these items? It would be much appreciated.

[170C]

Bruce, you might get lucky (questionable if lucky is the right term) and find some parts in some of the aircraft salvage yards. However IMHO you will be much better off giving up "that" part of orginality and getting Cleveland brakes. Easier to maintain, more dependable, parts are readily available, etc.

[bsdunek]

Actuelly, you're right Ole Pokey. I'm just stubborn, I guess. When I run out of the parts I have, I'll probably do that.
Thanks

[cessna170bdriver]

'98C had Goodyear crosswind landing gear from the factory. The solid steel axle was attached to a large steel knuckle with a centering detent. A cetain side load would overcome the detent to allow 30 degrees movement. I never could bring myself to land in a crab, but it was great fun to see passengers' reactions when I would take a turn on the ground a bit too fast, and all of a sudden the airplane was pointed 30 degrees to where it was going. I could also get a rise out of line personel by locking one brake and swinging into a parking space with one wheel pigeon-toed.

I was always bothered by the clunking of that floating disk, but I never had an operational problem. The brakes worked really well, as the disk was almost large enough to drop a standard disk through. It had to be that big to fit around the mechanism. As I remember it, at my first annual after buying the airplane, we found a cracked wheel and one pitted inboard bearing (approx 4 inches inside diameter ). The cost to replace just those two items would have exeeded the cost of the Cleveland conversion, so it didn't take me long to decide to give up that part of the originality of the airplane. When the paperwork was done, it made me wish I had thrown the crosswind gear away earlier, because BOTH Clevelands WITH tires and tubes weighed less than ONE SIDE of the crosswind gear WITHOUT tire and tube.

I still have the left-overs; maybe I need to bring them to a convention auction sometime...

Miles

[N2865C]

I also think the best thing to do is dump the Goodyear's, but if you insist, there are some parts listed on Barnstormers. I have not checked the part numbers, but they were listed in the 170 section.

GOODYEAR BRAKE PUCKS ETC • FIRST CLASS JUNQUE FOR SALE • Goodyear lining N O S 2511269 $125.00 N O S 9511271 $100.00 N O S 9511261 $50.00 while available. some clips & buttons still available. Even have some used linings left. • Contact Art N. Moose - JUS' PLANE JUNQUE located Zanesville, OH USA • Telephone: 740-819-4111 740-454-9554 • Posted August 27, 2005 •

[GAHorn]

(I realize the intent is a good one, to help a fellow member locate parts for his brakes. But please be careful about listing commercial dealers of parts here for free. A Private Message would send the member the contact info without giving free advertising to someone who might be a competitor to one of our own supporters.
Thank you.)

Meanwhile...it'd be a cold day in Hades before I'd consider paying $100 for a brake lining. I'm a fan of originality, but not obsolescence.

[bsdunek]

Thanks to you also, N2865C.
I just got my Univair (they are a TIC170A advertiser) catalog today. They have parts. With what they have, and with the parts I have squirreled away, I can probably keep my Goodyears for as long as I can fly.
Of course one should convert to Clevelands, but like I said, I'm stubborn! It's all in fun anyway.

[kloz]

I know a guy that buys truck brake pads and uses a hole saw like used for door knobs to cut out the pads for his Goodyear's.

[zero.one.victor]

At close to a thousand bucks for just the Cleveland W&B kit (not including installation!), if I had Goodyears I'd try to keep them airworthy for as long as possible. I know a guy who's owned an A model for about 30 years, he's still running the Goodyears & he flies at least weekly-- they must not be too much trouble.

Eric

[cessna170bdriver]

At close to a thousand bucks for just the Cleveland W&B kit (not including installation!), if I had Goodyears I'd try to keep them airworthy for as long as possible. I know a guy who's owned an A model for about 30 years, he's still running the Goodyears & he flies at least weekly-- they must not be too much trouble.

Eric

The Goodyears aren't "too much trouble" until the disk retaining clips get loose and let the floating disk go sideways and lock the wheel. Then you have a groundloop and all the expense and embarrassment that entails. It's a fairly well known problem and most folks keep a close eye on them. If you want to keep the Goodyears for originality sake, more power to you, but keep them well maintained!

I've been running Clevelands since 1983 and it only costs a set of pucks every few years and a set of o-rings for the wheel cylinders every ten years or so. Other than that, the only maintenance is a dab of anti-sieze compound on the wheel cylinder retaining bolts annually to keep the mechanism free. I still have the same set of disks that came with the kit 22 years ago.

FWIW, Miles

[170C]

Miles, how about details on the anti seize compound?

[bradbrady]

Miles, how about details on the anti seize compound?

170C,
dont want to answer for miles but i have been putting anti seize on pins and bolts on cleveland brakes for years if applyed liberaly will seal each end of pin openings wont attract dirt like grease and on bolts will help keep corrosion down between bolts and housing stayes plyable between annuals,
brad

[cessna170bdriver]

Brad,

No problem on answering. The more input the better! Also, thanks for straightening me out on the correct names for the parts. I never knew exactly why anti-seize is used instead of grease; I just assumed that it takes the heat better than grease.

Frank,

For various reasons, '98C went from 1987 to 1990 without being flown. When I started flying her again, I noticed that the brakes were adequate, but not quite as effective as I remembered they had been. At the NEXT annual time in '91, the IA found that the caliper and pins were corroded together (pins are steel, calipers are aluminum), evidently due to 3 years of inactivity and 4 years of no maintenance. Probably the only braking action I had was due to flexing of the caliper bracket. For best braking action and compensation for pad wear, the caliper should float on the pins. The IA that found the problem taught me to use anti-seize (the same stuff used on spark plug threads) on the pins once a year to keep the caliper free. Since I don't have wheel pants, he also told me to give the calipers a wiggle on preflight to make sure they are free on the pins.

Miles

[GAHorn]

And when you overhaul brakes, or pull wheels for any reason,...use a gun-cleaning bore-brush to clean out the pin's locating holes.
The anti-seize recommended by Cleveland is per MIL-T-5544. W. J. Ruscoe Co., Akron, OH makes it under the brand-name "Lubtork".

[170C]

George is this the same thing Miles mentioned (same as used on spark plugs)? I use the plug item, but just wondered what others have found that works on the locater pins.