Made the trip to the Mid-Atlantic Fly-in in Lumberton, NC on Saturday, and had a good time. Actually, the best part of the day was finding an original factory gust lock in the Fly market! I've only seen pictures of one in my owner's manual. It's quite a contraption - it locks the control wheel and the rudder pedals as well. And anytime you can find an original, rare part for your airplane is a good day!
OK, the catch is it's for a Cessna 120/140 - too short for the 170 by about four inches. It works if I hook it up to the bottom of the control yoke, instead of the top as it was designed to do.
I have a couple of questions here. First off, does anyone have a factory control lock for the 170 they could measure; the idea here is I could lengthen this one using the next size up of U-channel, I might even make it so that you can fold it up for easier storage. Second, the folding brace fits against some type of fitting on the floorboard on the pilot's side (aluminum angle?) Does anyone have this piece installed on their airplane who could describe it to me?
I'd be grateful for information about the factory gust lock from anyone with experience with it. They seem to be very rare...Russ Farris
Cessna original control lock
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russfarris
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Cessna original control lock
Last edited by russfarris on Mon May 16, 2005 5:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
All glory is fleeting...
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Harold Holiman
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Russ,
Many years ago, when I had my 170A, it had a original Cessna control lock. The piece in the floor was just, as I can best remember, a piece of sheet aluminum angle about two inches wide, with the angle part on the floor about 1 1/2 to 2 inches and the angle standing up about 3/4" or so. It was held with two screws and was positioned so the "foot" of the control lock poped overcenter into the metal angle. The corners of the angle were well rounded so they wouldn't catch your shoe or anything.
Harold
N92CP
Mbr # 893
Many years ago, when I had my 170A, it had a original Cessna control lock. The piece in the floor was just, as I can best remember, a piece of sheet aluminum angle about two inches wide, with the angle part on the floor about 1 1/2 to 2 inches and the angle standing up about 3/4" or so. It was held with two screws and was positioned so the "foot" of the control lock poped overcenter into the metal angle. The corners of the angle were well rounded so they wouldn't catch your shoe or anything.
Harold
N92CP
Mbr # 893
Russ,
Becareful of the sharp edges on the part of the control lock that holds the control yoke. These sharp edges will in short time make groves in your yoke. Some u-channel (like that used on the wing strut ends) glued onto the control lock edges will stop the groving. The locating stop you asked about is nothing more than 1/2" angle iron placed at the spot that will hold the lock in place.
Johneb
Becareful of the sharp edges on the part of the control lock that holds the control yoke. These sharp edges will in short time make groves in your yoke. Some u-channel (like that used on the wing strut ends) glued onto the control lock edges will stop the groving. The locating stop you asked about is nothing more than 1/2" angle iron placed at the spot that will hold the lock in place.
Johneb
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Harold Holiman
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- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 1:54 pm
Russ,
Mine did have the U channel to protect the wheel like Johneb described but had the fabricated floor angle as I described rather than just a piece of angle. My yokes were turned up and it worked on the main crossbar of the wheel which would be the same location as the top crossbar or yours, if your wheel is in the normal down turned position. Several years ago I made several control locks from PVC which worked on a simular principal of locking the wheels to the pedals, which I gave at the Wilmington auction. On them I used bungi cords rather than the overcenter leg. The PVC lock is what I am using in my present plane.
Harold
N92CP
Mbr # 893
Mine did have the U channel to protect the wheel like Johneb described but had the fabricated floor angle as I described rather than just a piece of angle. My yokes were turned up and it worked on the main crossbar of the wheel which would be the same location as the top crossbar or yours, if your wheel is in the normal down turned position. Several years ago I made several control locks from PVC which worked on a simular principal of locking the wheels to the pedals, which I gave at the Wilmington auction. On them I used bungi cords rather than the overcenter leg. The PVC lock is what I am using in my present plane.
Harold
N92CP
Mbr # 893
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russfarris
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Thanks guys, that does help. This control lock is in excellent condition and it has that black plastic stuff similiar to what tool handles are dipped into; that should take care of the grooving problem. (The picture in the 1952 owner's manual shows the same area being protected.)
I guess a piece of aluminum angle from the hardware store would suffice for the stop on the floor (unless George says I need an STC/337- ha, ha!)
Does anyone have one of these locks currently on their airplane? I would like
the exact dimension of the length so I can modify it for the 170, but I'm sure I could get it pretty close. Or maybe some 140 owner with a 170 lock would like to trade
Russ Farris
I guess a piece of aluminum angle from the hardware store would suffice for the stop on the floor (unless George says I need an STC/337- ha, ha!)
Does anyone have one of these locks currently on their airplane? I would like
the exact dimension of the length so I can modify it for the 170, but I'm sure I could get it pretty close. Or maybe some 140 owner with a 170 lock would like to trade
Russ FarrisAll glory is fleeting...
So that is what those angles are. I wondered what they were doing on the floor plate and I think there are two spaced apart. I will have to look closer now.
I don't use any lock at the controls due to the strain on the cables. I use screw lock plates and a bra for the rudder.
John
I don't use any lock at the controls due to the strain on the cables. I use screw lock plates and a bra for the rudder.
John
John Hess
Past President 2018-2021
President 2016-2018, TIC170A
Vice President 2014-2016, TIC170A
Director 2005-2014, TIC170A
N3833V Flying for Fun
'67 XLH 900 Harley Sportster
EAA Chapter 390 Pres since 2006
K3KNT
Past President 2018-2021
President 2016-2018, TIC170A
Vice President 2014-2016, TIC170A
Director 2005-2014, TIC170A
N3833V Flying for Fun
'67 XLH 900 Harley Sportster
EAA Chapter 390 Pres since 2006
K3KNT
noseeumlodge@starband.netrussfarris wrote:Thanks guys, that does help. This control lock is in excellent condition and it has that black plastic stuff similiar to what tool handles are dipped into; that should take care of the grooving problem. (The picture in the 1952 owner's manual shows the same area being protected.)
I guess a piece of aluminum angle from the hardware store would suffice for the stop on the floor (unless George says I need an STC/337- ha, ha!)
Does anyone have one of these locks currently on their airplane? I would like
the exact dimension of the length so I can modify it for the 170, but I'm sure I could get it pretty close. Or maybe some 140 owner with a 170 lock would like to trade
See his recent post in the Trademart!
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
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russfarris
- Posts: 476
- Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 2:25 am
Original gust lock
Russ:
I have one that I received with the airplane 12 years ago and I can measure it if you still need the length.
Please email me at fly170@bellsouth.net.
I do not have the attachment that mounts on the floor.
Dan
I have one that I received with the airplane 12 years ago and I can measure it if you still need the length.
Please email me at fly170@bellsouth.net.
I do not have the attachment that mounts on the floor.
Dan