Cowling Removal

How to keep the Cessna 170 flying and airworthy.

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jmbrwn
Posts: 53
Joined: Sat Jun 12, 2004 12:50 pm

Cowling Removal

Post by jmbrwn »

Ok...I'm going out on a limb here and embarrassing myself. The other day, I was going to remove my cowling for some house cleaning, but couldn't get the bottom cowling off. The top was no problem, but the bottom cowl seems to be catching on the air filter box. I couldn't move it forward because of the prop, or tilt it because of the exhaust pipes. Am I missing something...is there something special to getting the bottom cowling off? :oops:
Jim Brown
N9753A
'49 C170A
N170CT
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Post by N170CT »

Jim,

Don't know the specifics re your aircraft, but on my 56 170B, it is much easier to remove the lower cowling after removing the carb air filter. Mine is the Brackett type (four screws) which may or may not be the same as yours. In fact, my lower cowling will fall off when the last retaining screw is removed. Note, I also have Bartone pipes installed which also makes it easier to remove and replace the cowling.

Good luck,
Chuck
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jrenwick
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Re: Cowling Removal

Post by jrenwick »

jmbrwn wrote:...is there something special to getting the bottom cowling off? :oops:
Jim,
You're not alone. My lower cowling is slightly different from yours ('55 B model) but it is still difficult to remove because it hangs up on the prop spinner, the air filter box, and the twin exhaust pipes. I just fiddle with it, keep going back over the points where it's hanging up, and eventually I get it off. Where it needs the most persuasion is clearing the top of the air cleaner. I'm sure that with practice this will become easier. The fact that it hangs up a little is actually a blessing, because it helps in removing it solo. Surprisingly, it's easier to put back on than to take off.

Best Regards,

John
John Renwick
Minneapolis, MN
Former owner, '55 C-170B, N4401B
'42 J-3 Cub, N62088
'50 Swift GC-1B, N2431B, Oshkosh 2009 Outstanding Swift Award, 2016 Best Continuously Maintained Swift
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

Beginning with SN 26996 the exhaust "fangs" holes had adjustable outlets to avoid intereference. This cowl is much easier to deal with, and the adjustable exhaust openings can be adapted to earlier aircraft. (Minor alteration.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
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Bruce Fenstermacher
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Post by Bruce Fenstermacher »

Jim
A friend with his A model cowl has to remove the airfilter before removing the cowl. He was amazed how easy my cowl comes off of my A model (yes George that part is A model) but I can tell you that my cowl has had the openings for the carb filter and the exhaust "Adjusted" since I've owned it and probably before that.
Last edited by Bruce Fenstermacher on Mon Sep 27, 2004 10:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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jmbrwn
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Post by jmbrwn »

Thanks guys...I'm not so red faced anymore. I'll try taking the carb filter off and see how that works.

Thanks again! :D
Jim Brown
N9753A
'49 C170A
zero.one.victor
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Post by zero.one.victor »

On my ragwing, you're fighting the airbox & the exhaust pipes, plus the top of the nosebowl (which curves in) hangs up on the case thru-bolts behind the prop. You have to kinda work it off one side at a time over the thru-bolts, same thing in reverse to reassemble.

Eric
doug8082a
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Post by doug8082a »

Same on my '52, except that the airbox doesn't seem to be quite as much of an issue for me.
Doug
zero.one.victor
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Post by zero.one.victor »

Yeah, the airbox is really more of an issue (& not much of one then) when reinstalling the cowl, you have to give a firm push aft on the cowl to get the rubber seals to seat properly around the airbox so everything lines up right. If you've extended the tailpipes (to get rid of exhaust smudging on the lower cowl) to more of a "fang" configuration, it takes a bit more effort to jiggle everything just right and up into place where you can give it that push aft.

Eric
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