Seat track replacement

[jmurtap]

Hey Guys,

We're going to have to replace the seat tracks this year, I've ordered and received outside right and inside left tracks to comply. These new ones look amazing, and I think they will look really odd next to my old ones. What's your opinion on replacing all of them instead so they all match? Will the seats roll any better? Will the new ones look like the old ones in a year? It'll be another 400 bucks to replace the other two, I'm just kicking around the idea if it would be worth while or not to suck it up and do them all.

Anyone else gone down this road? What do you think?

[bagarre]

Hey Guys,

We're going to have to replace the seat tracks this year, I've ordered and received outside right and inside left tracks to comply. These new ones look amazing, and I think they will look really odd next to my old ones. What's your opinion on replacing all of them instead so they all match? Will the seats roll any better? Will the new ones look like the old ones in a year? It'll be another 400 bucks to replace the other two, I'm just kicking around the idea if it would be worth while or not to suck it up and do them all.

Anyone else gone down this road? What do you think?

They wont roll any better and with the seats in you will barely notice the difference.
BUT replacing the rollers on the SEATS will make a world of difference. If you haven't already, I'd add the roller kit to the list.

Also remember the AD requires measuring the seat feet (for lack of a better word) for wear as well.

[cessna170bdriver]

I bit the bullet and replaced all four of mine at the same time. If I remember correctly, not all of the rivet holes come drilled in the tracks, and you would normally have to match drill from underneath the floor, but on my airplane at least, the rivet holes on the tracks with seat stop holes are mirror images of the ones without the seat stop holes, so I was able to use the old tracks to match drill the remaining rivet holes in the new ones. In any case, get ready for some sore arms...

Guinness is partly to blame for the soreness, but it was also part of the cure. :O)

[bat443]

McFarlane Aviation sells a template kit, which is nothing more than a strip of aluminum 1.5 x 38 x .025 inches, that you drill to match the removed seat track and then use to drill the new seat track. I've used it to do a couple of track replacements and much easier than I think back drilling through the floor would be. Part number SRTEM 1, currently $4.84, you would need one for each track you want to replace. Order them when you order the replacement tracks.

Tim

[bagarre]

ProTip: Run a piece of scotch bright around the lip of your inspection holes to smooth out any nicks or gouges or your arms will bleed for a week.

Or remove the entire floor and replace the rails on the bench. Good time to do the fuel selector too

[DaveF]

Not only do the McFarlane templates make drilling much easier, you can rivet them in as doublers under the floor.

Jason's question shows one more reason that installing later model seats is a bad idea. Later seats have two tracks to wear out instead of just one. I should start a separate thread with my rant about why I hate having the '75 172 seats in my airplane.

[bagarre]

Not only do the McFarlane templates make drilling much easier, you can rivet them in as doublers under the floor.

Jason's question shows one more reason that installing later model seats is a bad idea. Later seats have two tracks to wear out instead of just one. I should start a separate thread with my rant about why I hate having the '75 172 seats in my airplane.

Not all of them. I have a set of fully articulating 172 seats that fit fine and use the original 170 rails.

[DWood]

I have replaced all four seat tracks in the 170 and just recently the pilot left in the 182.
I have just used the old tracks as the templates and drilled the holes.
All have aligned perfectly.
You could use AN525 high strength screws in the first and last holes on the track for a couple reasons. They are 125,000 K PSI tensile strength and these are some of the hardest to buck and inspect properly.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Just to present the opposing view. I only replaced the tracks that were worn on my first 170. I generally don't replace good parts.

[lowNslow]

Usually I agree with Bruce regarding replacement parts but I did all four just because I liked the look of the new cadmium surfaces in the cabin. Also used the structural screw kit from McFarlane.

[170C]

13 or so yrs ago I too replaced my original seat tracks (all 4) with McFarlane tracks. My IA installed the new ones with approved bolts/phillips head and I have not had any issues with the bolts vs replacing them with rivets. Also when the time comes to replace them again, if ever, it will be a much easier job not having to drill out rivets.

[ghostflyer]

Well I did the only ones that were worn and now regret not doing all 4. As the 2 I didn't do will have to be replaced soon. But I did replace all the rollers and it made a BIG difference how the seat moved. The Cessna shuffle is not as bad as it was and the seats do lock which is very important. However look at the seat tangs that lock onto the rails. I replaced a couple of mine that were close . I am looking again to replace a couple of seat tangs so where can we buy some new ones ?

[jmurtap]

How are the McFarland ones holding up finish wise?

[lowNslow]

How are the McFarland ones holding up finish wise?

Mine are still looking good after three years. No problems.

[cessna170bdriver]

Just to present the opposing view. I only replaced the tracks that were worn on my first 170. I generally don't replace good parts.

How much will someone give me for the "good" ones I replaced? I still use the "good" and the "bad" ones occasionally for clamping up parts on my RV project; they're pretty stiff.

13 or so yrs ago I too replaced my original seat tracks (all 4) with McFarlane tracks. My IA installed the new ones with approved bolts/phillips head and I have not had any issues with the bolts vs replacing them with rivets. Also when the time comes to replace them again, if ever, it will be a much easier job not having to drill out rivets.

Frank, build an RV and you won't think twice about drilling out rivets.