INSTRUMENT LIGHTING (Instrument light Rheostat info)

How to keep the Cessna 170 flying and airworthy.

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mit
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Post by mit »

zero.one.victor wrote:The 170 Book lists STC SA152NW: "installation of deck & glare shield (with & without instrument lights). Issued 1-13-75." STC holder is long-time Assn member Bob Schroers of Bellevue Washington. I don't know if he ever sold any of these,or just did the STC for his own installation. He sold his 170 about 5 years ago,but was still listed in the 2001 Assn directory,however I don't see him listed in the 2003 directory. He's getting up there in years,might even has passed away by now. But if ya want to pursue it,email or PM me for his address,etc.
I looked in my Spruce catalog,the Grimes spotlights sell for about a C-note these days. There were some other instrument lighting arrangements shown that looked interesting,but there might not be any approval on them for a 170 installation.

Eric

I bought a glare shield from Bob about 10 years ago he was a super guy to deal with and the lighting works great! With the STC its got to be the way to go now.
Tim
mrpibb
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ip lights.

Post by mrpibb »

David, I feel your pain or at least my buddy does. We started my first annual three weeks ago, I bought the airplane 5 weeks ago. It's amazing how deep you can get into it !! We decided to go under the instument panel to clean up the rats nest, I guess after 55 years one should not be surprized to find what we found. after about 6 days under the panel we had a pile of wire, instument/garden hose, wire nuts and some things we still are trying to indentify. But all ends in a positive note 1. it is nice and neat now 2. found a static leak and most of all I found out I got instument panel lights and compass light with a rheostat that was hideing amongst the mess. Now were on to tackle the airframe and engine, well so much for the two weekend annual, I'm shooting for a ETR of thanksgiving.
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Vic
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dacker
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Post by dacker »

I spent a few hours yesterday learning to solder and made a nifty new lighting harness with the stock lights (I used aviation wiring unlike the stuff I took out). My old rheostat still worked (it had been wired wrong as well), and per my mechanic's suggestion I soldered a ground wire to the instrument light frames to prevent the lights from flickering as they vibrate in the panel. All tested well on the bench, now I just need to install them. This was a real feel good project in that it didn't require a tremendous amount of time or skill and I got something accomplished. I also pulled the instrument panel in order to remove the corrosion, alodine and paint with zinc chromate. While this is removed I will probably take a scrutinizing look at my instruments, rewire everything, and etc. etc. Hopefully mine will be nice and neat as well Vic. I plan on installing the glare shield when I tackle my interior, but I will see how my instruments perform before I install the glareshield lighting.
David
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

Regarding the rheostat (an Ohmite product). This item is actually nothing more than a wire-wound resistor with a carbon-brush which is slid along the wire windings to select the amount of resistance desired (resulting in the appropriate amount of brilliance from the lighting.) There are 3 terminals. The center one connects to the brush which is controlled by the knob. The end terminals connect to each end of the wire windings. Depending upon which way you want the knob to turn increasing brilliance, determines which of those terminals is used. The other end is left as an open circuit.
Twiddling my thumbs one day, it occurred to me that the only way the lights are extinguished is due to the overwhelming amount of resistance found at the far end of the windings. In other words, electricity still flows through all those bulbs and the rheostat even when the lamps appear not to be glowing. It's a minor thing, and probably not important, but it just drove me nuts.
So I did an unauthorized modification to my rheostat. I mixed up a small blob of epoxy and, with the brush moved to the far end of the winding, ...I put a very small, thin, smoothly contoured dab of epoxy on the opposite end, where the terminal is crimped upon the resistance wire winding. After it hardened, it provided a nice little resting place for the brush to reside that completely interrupts the electrical circuit. In other words, it provides a true "off" position on the rheostat.
Having now broadcast it to the world, I'll probably get a "condition tag" from the feds for this, along with my polished prop. :roll:
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N1478D
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Post by N1478D »

:lol: That's a polished prop? :lol:
Joe
51 C170A
Grand Prairie, TX
dacker
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Post by dacker »

Regarding the rheostat, I thought that with one wire on the center terminal you could use either of the other terminals to complete the circuit. For some reason my rheostat would not work correctly on one terminal but did just fine on the other. I had soldered the wire on prior to testing so there should have been a good connection. Beats me why mine only works one way. Maybe I got hold of some finicky electricity (sort of like no lift air) :lol:.
David
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

David, that is correct, ...normally. Perhaps someone had "clipped" the resistance wire at one end to provide a genuine "OFF"?
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wa4jr
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Post by wa4jr »

I couldn't pull those nasty little torpedo "lights" out of the ceiling of my 170 fast enough. Although I could see them glowing red, I never got more than a sliver of light on the panel from either unit. I am in the process of installing a dimmable bus and adding NULITES. I don't have the whole panel done yet...just going with a couple of instruments at a time, but I love the way they light each instrument. No more fidling with those torpedo "lights" that do nothing more than heat up and waste my volts. George, I think I threw my torpedoes away, but if by chance I can find them in my hangar, I will be glad to send them both to you :twisted:
John, 2734C in Summit Point, WV
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

gahorn wrote:Regarding the rheostat (an Ohmite product). This item is actually nothing more than a wire-wound resistor with a carbon-brush which is slid along the wire windings to select the amount of resistance desired (resulting in the appropriate amount of brilliance from the lighting.) There are 3 terminals. The center one connects to the brush which is controlled by the knob. The end terminals connect to each end of the wire windings. Depending upon which way you want the knob to turn increasing brilliance, determines which of those terminals is used. The other end is left as an open circuit.
Twiddling my thumbs one day, it occurred to me that the only way the lights are extinguished is due to the overwhelming amount of resistance found at the far end of the windings. In other words, electricity still flows through all those bulbs and the rheostat even when the lamps appear not to be glowing. It's a minor thing, and probably not important, but it just drove me nuts.
So I did an unauthorized modification to my rheostat. I mixed up a small blob of epoxy and, with the brush moved to the far end of the winding, ...I put a very small, thin, smoothly contoured dab of epoxy on the opposite end, where the terminal is crimped upon the resistance wire winding. After it hardened, it provided a nice little resting place for the brush to reside that completely interrupts the electrical circuit. In other words, it provides a true "off" position on the rheostat. ***
As a follow up to this thread, I just rec'd a call from a member looking to replace/repair his rheostat and wanting to know how to obtain one without paying Cessna $250 and his first-born male child for it. :evil:
The rheostat is mfr'd by Ohmite Mfg. Co., Skokie, Ill 60076 (A North American Phillips Co.) and is their model "H", 100 ohms, 25 watt, stock no. 0151. You might find them locally at electronic/electric supply houses, costing typically between $2.50 and $20 depending upon markup. ( I once purchased several at a surplus electronics supply house for 25 cents each, but they've all been utilized and/or given away now...sorry.)
A similar, though smaller and less wide control capacity, rheostat is available from Spruce, their pn 0144, 25 watt, 8 ohm, for $26.50.

If you're a REAL frugal person, you might find that if your rheostat has failed to either full ON or full OFF (with no dimming controllability) that you can still save your existing rheostat by simply removing the wire connection from one end of the wire-wound resistance wire terminal, ...and resoldering the wire to the OPPOSITE end terminal. This might be due to the resistance wire having broken at the terminal end being previously used....while at the opposite end still being serviceable. The only downside is that the knob will rotate in the opposite direction than previously when dimming/increasing lamp brilliance. (This may not work quite as satisfactorily if you've modified it with epoxy as mentioned previously, however.)
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
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GAHorn
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Post by GAHorn »

As a followup to this thread, Ohmite now has a website. Their rheostats are listed at:
http://www.ohmite.com/cgi-bin/showpage. ... _wirewound

Notice they also have rheostats which are enclosed, should you be paranoid about open resistance wiring. (Not suggesting anything, here. The original ones were un-enclosed, but if you've modified your airplane and have dimmer-rheostats near flammable upholstery or in unprotected locations.....it's a consideration.)

Ohmite makes lots of other components. Their home page is:
http://www.ohmite.com/
'53 B-model N146YS SN:25713
50th Anniversary of Flight Model. Winner-Best Original 170B, 100th Anniversary of Flight Convention.
An originality nut (mostly) for the right reasons. ;)
PilotMikeTX
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Post by PilotMikeTX »

dacker wrote: Why on earth people can't just do something right the first time is beyond me!
Amen, brother! Preachin' to the choir!

A new panel is in my future too.

Mike
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