Winter is coming, new exhaust and cabin heat

[rupertjl]

During the annual this year the exhaust system looked like it was on it's last leg. So I did a search on here and found out about AWI welding and their replacement exhaust system for the 170A. I currently have the pancake style mufflers with the shrouds on them, but no cabin heat hooked up. If I go with the exhaust from AWI, where would be the best place to get the right flapper valve to allow cabin heat? There is a cut out on the firewall that was plugged so I assume there used to be cabin heat, and the airbox has a 2" port on the back end of it that is capped. Anyone know of a good place or would a part number given to an aircraft junkyard work better? By the way, I was quoted $1695 for a complete exhaust system from AWI, anyone out there buy from there recently and how did it fit up?

Thanks!

Jud

[zero.one.victor]

That seems like a pretty good price fort a complete system, if it includes the muffs.
Even if the cabin heat was disconnected, I'd think that the heat valve woulda been left in place on the firewall. Did your airplane used to live in the desert southwest or some other hot locale? Kinda surprised that someone took the trouble to remove (not just disconnect) the cabin heat system. A friend of mine disconnects the cabin heat from the exh muff on his Luscombe in the summer, and hooks some scat between the heat valve & a scoop at the front of the engine area for "cabin air".
On my ragwing (pancake mufflers), the carb heat comes off one muff (the RH side as I recall) and the cabin heat off the other side. Not exactly per the IPC, but that's how it was when I got it & it works.
Heat valve pruchase: check the IPC for p/n's, then call the salvage outfits &/or post a "wanted" ad on the trademart forum. Don't forget, you'll need the control cable & knob too.

Eric

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

You should be able to find a valve as it was pretty common in the late '50 Cessna's. One thing you may want to consider is the early 150 valves look to be the same except the manifold excepts 3" scat instead of 2".

By increasing the size of the scat on the inlet side you would be increasing the volume of air which I'd think would mean better/more heat. Depending where your located that could be REAL nice in the winter.

[3958v]

I did the conversion you are talking about on my 48 earlier this year and am pleased with the results. I have the the original ragwing duct system which puts the output of the two muffs togather. The heat while still not great is much better. There were no problems with the installation all went smoothly. Bill K

[cessna170bdriver]

You should be able to find a valve as it was pretty common in the late '50 Cessna's. One thing you may want to consider is the early 150 valves look to be the same except the manifold excepts 3" scat instead of 2".

The later B-models, SN 25373 and on, have cabin heat plumbing for 3" scat, including the front engine baffle, right muffler shroud, rear baffle union (supplies fresh air to cabin), and firewall valve. This system is quite adequate for the lower 48, as I've been able to maintain the cabin in the 40s with an OAT of -20 (yes, thats MINUS 20).

Miles

[rudymantel]

I just wish winter would come to South Florida- the hottest summer on record, temperature still in the 90's, and another two months of hurricane season to look forward to !
Rudy