Best three mods

[bigrenna]

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[jatkins]

Hi Greg,
I have a 52 170B as well. In my option, the 3 best mods are,
1) pull handles for the tail,
2)180 gear legs, and Cleveland double puck brakes ( if you run 800 tires, )
3) P Ponk gear box upgrade. (Once we started to do my upgrade we found that the existing Cessna gear box extrusions were badly corroded.

But the list goes on, and on, and on,.........
such as Dip cowl latches ( check my spelling )

John

[pdb]

This really depends on how you use your plane. A guy commuting in the Midwest flying from pavement to pavement wouldn't want big tires slowing him down. Guys flying out West from high density altitude strips would want to consider the 180 hp conversion in spite of the cost. Etc, etc.

Here's my list with the caveat that I live in Alaska.

1) No matter who we are, we all need the BAS tail handles for ground maneuvering.

2) Ditch the boat anchor known as the factory back seat and install a single F. Atlee Dodge single folding, removable seat. It's much lighter and creates a huge amount of room for gear. It eliminates the need for a baggage door as well. Removing weight is the single most cost effective performance mod period.

3) Add VGs. You get slower approach speeds and rock solid control at rediculously high AofA. Slower speeds eliminate need for double puck brakes. This is also a huge safety item as stall spin accidents still kill way too many pilots.

[c170b53]

What made your 170 better for you?

Time in and meeting the people that make up this organization face to face.

[Bruce Fenstermacher]

Greg I can only give you first hand knowledge of the three mods I'd have liked to have but never have and probably won't only because I just don't find the money for these kinds of mods. I had what was essentially a '52 just like yours.

Most of the modifications I have made to my 170s involve getting rid of a rats nest of intercom wires, GPS and who knows what power cords. Make sure you have basic good communications and navigating equipment.

1. The BAS tail pull handles. Every time I moved the aircraft I wish I had these. I've moved both of my 170s plenty in the last 12 years.

2. Cabin heat and heat distribution. I live in PA and it gets cold in the winter. Not as cold as a lot of places but a better heater than the stock '52 would make the airplane more of a 12 month airplane. Upgrading to the later heat distribution system with "3 scat would be the way to go.

3. The baggage door. Every single time I climb into the back seat to hunt for something in the baggage compartment I am extremely careful to not injure myself (and the airplane interior). There is a myriad of ways to get injured which usually involves slipping of the step and having it rip into your leg as you fall to the ground and severally twist your ankle.

In my opinion many of the other mods such as larger brakes, larger tires, larger engines, VGs, STOHL kits and so on are more desirable depending on your mission. I did have VGs but I didn't buy them and I won't buy them even though I loved them. I won't buy them because it's not necessary for my true mission profile.

If money were not object I'd have the biggest engine, the biggest tires, brakes to match, full stall and I might even paint the plane and pay someone to wash it.

[bagarre]

One more vote for the BAS tail handles. They are worth every penny and makes it easier to ask for help. "Use the handle and don't touch anything else"..

I have the PPonk, Lady Legs, Cleveland Brakes and solid axles...I don't know how much of a benefit they are as 99% of my landings are wheeled on paved runways or smooth grass.

The heater on the '52 is a great three season performer but, works best in the summer time. Swapping out for the newer system is a great idea. I have most of the parts...just need the time.

Take a look at your wires. If they are the original cloth covered ones, consider replacing everything. It's not that bad of a job and can be done in stages. I did mine last year in three stages. 1. Firewall forward, 2. Everything in the panel including Switches, 3. everything else. I also put in breakers, battery and a new regulator at the time. I like that there isnt a new funny smell when I turn on my landing lights now

But, the best thing you can do is fly the pants off the thing. If you want to upgrade to a 180HP engine (who doesn't), run your engine to TBO as soon as you can and enjoy doing it

[johneeb]

..............
Ponk? Axles? V Brace? Garmin? Baggage kit? 180HP? 180 legs? Baggage door? Bush wheels? Skis? Bubbles? What? Just curious... (Aside from copious amounts of instruction) What made your 170 better for you?

Thoughts?

Greg-

Greg,
Nice looking airplane!
I hope your plane does not still have hollow aluminum axles, if it does you need to invest in solid aluminum or hollow steel. Has the parking brake been disconnected? Both of these are mods that are real safety of flight items.

[jrenwick]

Of course you've seen this topic at the top of the "Hangar" area, right?

http://www.cessna170.org/forums/viewtop ... =24&t=1969

[bigrenna]

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[KG]

Indeed... I started with that link but seriously, it was started in 2004. I can't believe that there isn't a fresh look due at the question. After eight years, there has to be some new ways to skin the cats.

Don't bet on that. These are 60 year old airplanes and there are not a lot of new STC's being developed. The bugs have pretty much been worked out.

I'll give another vote for BAS tail pull handles. I like mine.

A previous owner installed Rosen sun visors in my plane and they are nice.

I had the Pponk gear kit installed.... don't know if it's good or not as I would have to wreck the plane to find out for sure.

I have the L-19 tie down bolt installed but I won't do it again. My first one was $21 (summer of 2009) and it came with a nylon lock nut that worked loose. I elected to replace the bolt and nut at the same time as the bolt had a mark on it from the loose operation. I didn't ask the price of the replacement when I ordered it from Air Repair. With shipping it was well over $40 (summer of 2011) and came with no nut at all. If this one wears out, I'll just tie a rope around the tail spring to tie it down. That seems to work as well as the eye bolt anyway.

My plane came with Michelin tires that just don't seem to wear out. Maybe it's my good landings.

I added a Reiff preheat system. It's not for the budget conscious but I like mine as I am lazy. Just plug her in, go to Waffle House for a leisurely breakfast, come back and fly.

[bagarre]

The tailwheel bolt is supposed to have a steel lock nut on it. The nylon ones tend to work lose as you've seen. There is a thread on this somewhere.

I tie my 170 out all the time so, the L19 tailwheel bolt is worth every penny. With a steel lock nut and 100 hours, it hasn't worked lose yet.
I put a touch of yellow marking paint on it so that I can check it every time I preflight.

Another item worth making/buying/having is a sling to secure the rudder when tied outside ( or fly-ins where people are careless about prop blast). There is a thread around here on this as well. Some folks have made real nice leather slings...I braided some 3 strand line to make a loop around the tail light and tie it off to the elevator hinges. Work well.

[edbooth]

In answer to the original question on the three favorite mods. My three favorite mods after owning our 53 model for 41 years, not including the ones installed for safety purposes are , baggage door, windshield without the center strip and 60 amp alternator...all for obvious reasons. Also have the P-ponk, solid axles, cleveland brakes, shoulder harness, etc.
It is a great airplane and all you could ever want if not considering speed. The RV-7 fills that gap.

[3958v]

While I am definitely not a mod guy I do have a few and would not get rid of them. 1 Cleaveland brakes for safety reasons 2 shoulder harness again for safety reasons. 3 Some type of a quarter turn lock on the front cowl latch to prevent it from unlatching in flight 4 an alternator is a nice mod if you have a small generator. If I had any extra money I would elect to spend it on gas to fly and enjoy your plane while you can as these birds for the most part seem to out last their pilots. Bill K

[GAHorn]

Over the past couple of months, I have gone in deep thru these pages searching for the what, where and why... There is TONS of good info on these pages, but it looks like some of it is dated. ....Greg-

It might be more helpful if we knew the mod status of YOUR airplane...

I think the most important ones to have from a safety standpoint is :
1-Disable parking brakes (cheap)
2-Get rid of hollow aluminum axles ($500)
3-Cleveland brakes ($1200)
4- Shoulder Harnesses (variable from $100 to $1000)
5- Anticollision strobes, Best-Whelen wingtips ($1200) or Second-best single Whelen fuselage units $250)
6- Non-rivetted magneto impluse couplings.
7-Re-wire with modern Tefzel wire.

From the standpoint of importance of airframe durability:
1- Pponk ($500 plus 8 hrs labor)
2- BAS Tailpull Handles (will help prevent vert. stab damage from improper handling)
3-Proper control gust locks (cheap make your own, avoid upper rudder locks)
4-Replace tailwheel main leafspring and tailwheel attach bolt every 500 hours or landings. (Use only all-metal lock-nuts.)

The most USEFUL ones from convenience/pleasure standpoint:
1-BAS Tailpull handles
2-Baggage Door (this is one I delayed a long time, being very dubious about...and almost didn't ....but if I had known in advance how much pure pleasure and usefulness it would add ....I'd have done it the first year I owned it!)
3-Improved lighting (dual land/taxi lighting and LED exterior/interior lighting)
4- Replace rear seat hinge-bolts with clevis pins. (cheap)

[KG]

Something I often wish I had but haven't installed .... those steps on the side of the fuselage to make it easier to get up to the fuel filler cap without a ladder. I could have used them today..........