Installing A TCM IO360

[johneeb]

Jim, thanks for the update. Looking Good and Happy Thanksgiving!

[c170b53]

OK so here's a question, when your done will you let it spin up to 210 HP? The reason I ask is will your gauges, F.F and RPM reflect the tweek, plus your fuel pressure will need mod. Will you go Stealth or be happy with 195 horses ? What have others who have this modification settled on? Dick, what did you do?

[blueldr]

I ran my TCM IO-360 at 2800 RPM for T.O. The limit of 195 HP on the Cessna R172 installation was accomplished by reducing the RPM lkimit to quiet down the noise.
Most of the guys that I know that have the R172 set them up to 2800 for the extra power at TO.

[bagarre]

I had my prop indexed to make 2800 on takeoff.
80 inches at 2800 is going to make a wonderful racket.

I hope to test that in 3 years when the rest of the plane is ready

[Metal Master]

OK so here's a question, when your done will you let it spin up to 210 HP? The reason I ask is will your gauges, F.F and RPM reflect the tweek, plus your fuel pressure will need mod. Will you go Stealth or be happy with 195 horses ? What have others who have this modification settled on? Dick, what did you do?

My engine is a TCM IO-360C not a KB it is built to make 210 HP from the factory. My fuel flow manifold instrument is from a Cessna R172E and shows the correct range markings and fuel flow for the 210 HP. My propeller is a freshly overhauled 80 inch McCauley propeller set with the internal stops to allow 210 HP and 2800 RPM. The propeller governor was gone though by my buddy at Southwest Governor and set to 2800 RPM. The fuel flow will be set by me on final configuration when I set the fuel flow per TCM SB 97-3G. My new electronic Tachometer a Horizon P-1000 which I am getting field approved is range marked with the correct yellow arc between 2600 and 2800 RPM the green arc from 2200 to 2600 RPM and the red line at 2800 RPM. I have only ran the engine up to 2600 RPM as it is now and it gets pretty exciting at just 2600 RPM. Most of my friends(pilots) here at Boeing Flight Test have been offering to make first flight with me. I think it should be interesting. I am guessing it should make some noise.

[c170b53]

Thanks Jim for that info, you're correct in knowing I'm KB biased.

[N2984D]

Guys,

I'm working on the exhaust. I have the longer heat exchanger on the right side (1955 B Model). Talking with Tom Anderson, I'm trying to come up with a easier was to fabricate the exhaust. My existing heat exchanger will not work. I see John has posted some great pictures and I also see some exhaust that may have been manufactured by Kinsley. Any good suggestions from any of you that have this mod, on how to go about the exhaust modification?

Thanks,
Larry Hayes

[johneeb]

Larry,
I had the same issue. I converted my right heat exchanger by first welding a ring, that Tom Anderson provided, to the front of the heat muff. Then I found a good shroud from one of the salvage yards to complete the conversion (my original right side shroud was in good shape which one of our fellow travelers was happy to have for his conversion from pancake to Hanlon-Wilson).

[N2984D]

John,

Tom had told me that you had the same problem with the heat exchanger. I have a set of exhaust from a 1967 C-172 that had the O-300-D. I will see if I can salvage something from it tomorrow. Concerning the risers, I see these have to angle toward the engine to clear the mount and exit the cowling. How did you make the angle?

I also see where Kinsley made an exhaust for someone. I like that installation, it seems to be much cleaner. I also have the JPI 930 with multiple EGT probes. JPI recommends placing the probes 2 to 4 inches below the cylinder. I don't think I will have that much room in the short risers?

Thanks,
Larry

[blueldr]

I took my entire power package on the engine build up stand, with the cowling installed, over to the Knisley shop in Loomis,CA. Shawn, a worker at
Knisley, made the exhaust for my TCM IO-360 installation by using a modified pair of headers from a Piper ag plane and a Y pipe from the exhaust of the rear engine of a Cessna 336.
I made a muff on the left bank for a cabin heat exchanger.
The two header pipes ranto the rear and down, turned to the center in between the engine mount legs, and joined the c-336 Y pipe for s single center exhaust out the bottom.
It really sounded great. I sold it to a fellow in Wisconsin who was in the conversion process.
The buyer of the rest of the conversion didn't want the exhaust because he wanted to retain the original pair of fangs exhaust as per the STC.

[Metal Master]

John,

Tom had told me that you had the same problem with the heat exchanger. I have a set of exhaust from a 1967 C-172 that had the O-300-D. I will see if I can salvage something from it tomorrow. Concerning the risers, I see these have to angle toward the engine to clear the mount and exit the cowling. How did you make the angle?

hanks,
Larry

Larry,
I used the Hanlin Wilson mufflers that came with my 170A. The later 170B R/H exhaust does not work from what Tom told me. The six probe EGT system will be a tight fit. I measured my exhaust stacks the other day and it would just make two inches. I plan to eventually put a Electronics International combination RPM, fuel flow, EGT, CHT system in and I am worried about the same issue for the two inches required for the EGT probes. I have planned to make some detail pictures of how I made the exhaust risers for my installation. I ended up learning to Tig weld through all of this. documenting it is a project all by its self. I made my risers from Stock 1 ½ .045 wall stainless tubing. I rolled the beads in the tube with my beading tools. It took several attempts to get the angles just right. I made a whole set of mock ups from mild steel tubing first to check fit before I made the final stainless set. The angle on the inboard side of the short exhaust risers is real tight to get the exhaust on and off. The risers need to be pretty short for the Muffler to clear the longitudinal engine mount frame. I made about six full scale drawings before I came up with the final design and fit. But overall I found this path easier than trying to modify the original risers with the flat spot they have.
I think the 172 Hanlin Wilson on the O300-D are larger in Diameter than those used on the 170 series.
Regards,
Jim

[johneeb]

John,

Tom had told me that you had the same problem with the heat exchanger. I have a set of exhaust from a 1967 C-172 that had the O-300-D. I will see if I can salvage something from it tomorrow. Concerning the risers, I see these have to angle toward the engine to clear the mount and exit the cowling. How did you make the angle?

I also see where Kinsley made an exhaust for someone. I like that installation, it seems to be much cleaner. I also have the JPI 930 with multiple EGT probes. JPI recommends placing the probes 2 to 4 inches below the cylinder. I don't think I will have that much room in the short risers?

Thanks,
Larry

Larry,
I beveled the flange allowing the stack to angle toward the centerline, if I were to do it again I would try coming straight out of the stack with a very short piece of pipe and make the angle below the flange.

I do have a JPI multi egt/cht gauge installed and the probes are located as far down as possible (maybe 2 inches) it is important to try and have them all at the same distance from the cylinder. Sorry no Pictures.

[N2984D]

Guys,

I also believe the 172 muffler are larger and don't think they will work. The Knisley exhaust would be the best to work with the EGT probes. I will give them a call on Monday. Since so many are having the some problem, it would be great if we could get one shop to build the parts for everyone?

Larry

[Metal Master]

As of yesterday 12 27 2015 I have completed the engine installation fire wall forward less clamping the engine mount heat shields to the mount. I need to pick up some screw clamps today to complete that. The instrument panel is back together less a few labels and all instrumentation is installed.
In the attached left side view you can see that I enlarged the inlet to the heater valve and constructed a “Y” tube to allow both heat muffs to provide heat to the cabin now that the new engine has no carburetor and thus no need for carb heat. Thanks Johneb. There is an alternate air control at the top of the engine and it is ducted to the left rear baffling. I have yet to tie up the wiring under the instrument panel. I was saving that for last to allow any last minute wiring changes. However at this point there are none and between now and the end of the week I expect short of weighing the airplane it will be ready to fly once completing the fuel injection set up. I will attach pictures of the instrument panel complete once I get that all squared away. It seems there is always one more thing to do. Santa brought three new cans of Nuvite polishing compound. Any volunteers?

[johneeb]

Looking really good Jim!

Be prepared to have great cabin heat.

Do you have a right angle drive for your vacuum pump?

Have you tried putting the lock pin in the battery box cover yet, the one between the alternator and battery box is a tough spot to work in.